7. Locate the color wheel cover. It’s got a small green circuit
board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that
plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables
coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That
will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one
blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so you’ll need to ease it out.
I pried it out with a jeweler’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.

Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to
avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white
wire:

Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a
Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the
blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the
optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around
the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old
colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off
the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly
on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing
the old connecting cable

Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.

8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it
in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the
rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them
in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight
up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel
wires go — out the gap in the front.

9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with
three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel
may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but that’ll give with a small
tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and slid it
toward the front.

10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without
touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where
you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will
slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing needs to spin
at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put
it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn’t allow me
to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws
and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.

11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space
facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their
destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three
connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.

12. Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in.
Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so
it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the
way. The center unit can only go in on it’s track, so again, don’t
force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the left side.
They should only go in one way. Did I mention don’t force anything?
Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.

13. Put the power cable in it’s slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.

14. Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two
screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on
the access panel.

15. Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.

16. Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)

17. Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.